The Nagas

Hill Peoples of Northeast India

Project Introduction The Naga Database

typescript 'Journey to Nagaland', by Mildred Archer. An account of six months spent in the Naga Hills in 1947

caption: visit to Chingmiren
medium: diaries
location: Chingmiren Chamyung R.
date: 9.11.1947
person: Archer/ Mildred
date: 9.7.1947-4.12.1947
text: Reluctantly we left the village and dropped steeply down the hillside to the Chamyung river, a small stream flowing through a great boulder-strewn bed. The headman's capable wife led the way offering us rice-beer whenever she thought we might be thirsty. Then the march ended with a gruelling climb up the other side. The path was without shade of any kind and lay between great clumps of pampas grass, the silver and mauve plumes swaying against a vivid sky. At the summit we were handed over to the headmen of Chingmiren, all resplendent in their red cloths and cane helmets. The youngest was a great wag wearing elephant-tusk bracelets, cowrie armlets and horns on his helmet from which floated the black tresses of a woman's head. He has already taken fifteen heads and he wore the dark blue cloth with the cowrie shell circles of the head-taker.