The Nagas

Hill Peoples of Northeast India

Project Introduction The Naga Database

typescript - J.H. Hutton's tour diary in the Naga Hills

caption: The origin of the Changs; toffee and dancing at Chongtore
medium: tours
person: Churangchu/ of AnangbaMills/ MrMongko/ of TuensangPawsey/ MrCharangsu/ of Mangaki
ethnicgroup: SangtamChangKonyaksYachungr
location: Chongtore Longtak Mt.
date: 8.11.1923
person: Hutton/ J.H.
date: 1.11.1923-30.11.1923
person: Pitt Rivers Museum Archive, Oxford
refnum: Hutton Ms. Box 2
text: 8th
text: To Chongtore. ("Chisang" of the Changs). About six miles along the ridge southwards. At the peak called Longtak, just below which the path runs, we halted for an hour and got into helio communication with Tichipami, while the Surveyor added to his map. There was a magnificent view from the peak. Thence down to Chongtore, a Sangtam village of about 120 houses, camping ground good and good water. Chongtore, although Sangtam, has a very strong admixture of Chang blood, and builds its houses in the Chang manner. The physique of its inhabitants is fine and the Changs ascribe this to their blood. The Changs themselves are a new tribe, their chief village - Tuensang - has only existed for 11 generations, and a number of their clans, now regarded as pure Chang in blood, and speaking no other language, are known to have had an origin from Konyaks from Angfan or Yachungr from somewhere else. The Chang language seems to have Kachin affinities. My friend Churangchu of Anangba came in here; a stout fellow, who went as a simple labourer to France since not knowing Assamese he could not go in any other capacity though the chief of his village. He smuggled back a Mauser Rifle and 60 rounds or so of ammunition and got it safely to his village. Unfortunately Mr. Mills heard of it and demanded its surrender. As it would have been useless from rust in any case in a year, he might have been left with his trophy. Churangchu has a great weal across his face where he "ate" someone's dao some years ago, but I gather he gave rather better than he got.
text: Besides Anangba and Chongtore the gaonburas of Lirisu, Phire Houpu ("Longtak") and Khumishe came in, and Mongko of Tuensang to ask for the measurements of our camping ground so as to make preparations.
text: Someone, Churangchu I think, brought me in here a huge chunk of Sangtam toffee, really magnificent stuff (Mr. Pawsey is my witness - he ate it till he broke a tooth) made by mixing in the flour of the maize or better still of "stinking dal" with boiling honey and keeping it on the boil till solid. It tastes very good but is exceedingly hard.
text: Charangsu of Mangaki, an ex-dobashi, went back from here having been quite useful in the Sangtam villages. I took on two Sema volunteers as "tikha coolies" - men of Khumishe wishing to see the world.
text: After dinner Churangchu and his men danced and very well too with most scientific footwork. Best of all was the dance imitating the hopping of crows searching for food.