The Nagas

Hill Peoples of Northeast India

Project Introduction The Naga Database

manuscript - 'Diary of a Tour in the Naga Hills, 1922-1923' by Henry Balfour

caption: Continued description of march and villages: genna stones, houses, carvings, spinning, graves, traps, vats
medium: diaries
person: Hutton/ J.H.Nikrihu
ethnicgroup: Angami <Kezama
location: Kekrima Pfutsero (Takhubama) Wokha Mt. Kohima Mao Kigwema (Kegwema) Zhakhama (Jakhama) Viswema Mesolezumi (Mezalozumi) Yasabama (Yazabami) Chizami (Kezobami)
date: 7.10.1922
person: Balfour/ Henry
date: 1922-1923
person: Pitt Rivers Museum Archive, Oxford
text: Sat. Oct. 7th
text: We left KEKRIMA at 8.15 a.m. and rode to TAKHUBAMA (7 miles). Fine day & magnificent views from the ridges. At first the track ran along the top of a ridge, the view to the N. including WOKHA mountain (the 'home of the dead') rising in step-like outline. Far beyond (?200 miles away) the snows of the Himalayas were just visible. We had a fine view of KOHIMA to the N.W., with a long stretch of road to MAO, & the Angami villages of KEGWEMA, JAKHAMA & VISWEMA. To the S. villages of the KEZAMA group of ANGAMI. The hill-sides were extensively jhumed & the jungle was thin. Quantities of Vanda caerulea on the trees epiphytically & white ground orchids. Rhododendrons grow well at this level, also Spiraeas which are very fine. We halted for 1/2 hour or so at TAKHUBAMA at 10.15 a.m. The Angami village lies on a saddle forming a low col in a range of hills. A goodly crowd of natives assembled, amongst them being a boy carrying a bullet-bow with clay bullets. We walked on to MEZALOZUMI (5 miles) through lovely scenery, mostly through virgin jungle with tall timber trees & very fine bamboos, the trees draped with a wonderful tangle of climbing canes, vines etc. Streams rushed down all the gulleys which were heavily fern-clad. A brilliantly coloured Russell's viper lay by the side of the path. It had evidently lately shed its old skin. A very poisonous species with fine black, yellow & brown markings. Arrived at MEZALOZUMI. We lunched outside the village among some very large genna stones, erected in a row by one man. These I photographed with Nikrihu standing by them to give a scale. Then we went into the Angami village, in which some of the houses are roofed with large wooden slabs (perhaps 2ft x 15 inches x 1.5 in.), looking like stone slabs. I photo'd one house with carved front. The houses tend to be divided longitudinally (instead of transversely) into compartments. Some of them have solid wooden doors carved with conventional mithan heads. (