The Nagas

Hill Peoples of Northeast India

Project Introduction The Naga Database

diaries kept by Ursula Graham Bower on visits to Manipur and North Cachar between 1937 and 1940

caption: Chongmon to Phaibok
medium: diaries
date: 26.11.1938
person: Graham Bower/ Ursula
person: private collection
text: (48) Nov. 26th Phaibok. 6 miles.
text: Woke early and went out. Found glorious sunrise & called Celia. We hung about, looking at cloud-sea and sunrise, until tea arrives. Had it inside, and dressed. Marched through village, where friends of night before pressed oranges on us in quantity. May fruit-trees in village, orange, jack-fruit and fine citrus. From village path went down steeply, very slippery, with fine views here and there, until we came out on the river and saw the camp the other side. Got out our bathing things and swam, to the interest of Chongmon, who watched us. Jeff & raft came by as we were dressing, Hamja and Umaid looking firmly the other way. Headman & wife came hurrying back from far bank to have a look, but arrived just as we got our clothes well on. Kharram Din plunged in and swam the river, whooping in the middle; and most of Chongmon took its clothes off and followed our example by plunging in. Jeff went in in his shorts and left his clothes dangling in the bushes. After tiffin raft came over and took us across. Rather jungli Kukis, but quite pleasant, (49) and nothing like so matey as Chongmon. Headman asked for quinine. He spoke Hindustani; so did some of the others; it sounded very odd from a hairy Kuki. Said they were only a day from Lakhipur. At breakfast had awful pang of toothache, presumably from crater. Took Veganin, which eased it, but it was tender all day. Terrible blow, as I was quite sure teeth were safe until I got home.