The Nagas

Hill Peoples of Northeast India

Project Introduction The Naga Database

diaries kept by Ursula Graham Bower on visits to Manipur and North Cachar between 1937 and 1940

caption: Kangreng to Thinkra
medium: diaries
date: 30.11.1938
person: Graham Bower/ Ursula
person: private collection
text: (62) Nov. 30th. Thingkra 1.5 to 2. 4 (app.) down gorge.
text: Had another go of toothache during small hours, crawled out, took 2 Veganin and sank into heavy slumber till Peter started whimpering to go out. Took him, as no one else seemed to want to, and escorted him round bushes. Returning, got severely mixed up with Polly and a door. Extricated all hands in the end and got back to bed. Had breakfast, and then Jeff went off fishing and we played our deck tennis match, I partnering tall lad, Celia the small boy, who played very well, improving every time. Most amusing match, anyway, though goodness knows who won, and there were no rules. Presented each lad with 2 packets fags, and then Celia and I had a muddy singles while the baggage went off, and Jeff came back too late to take photo of the match for us. After march of 1.5 miles we reached Thingkra, poised on another sandbank at head of the Bara Hatea. Sandbank lower down avalanching into the river with loud bangs all the time, and making water very foul. No one seemed to know the name of the (63) camp where we lunched yesterday, and changed over boatmen. Bara Hatea camp failed to materialise, so we go up to Talbung from here.
text: Went down gorge. Very large boulders and much scrambling, but howling high road after Chota Hatea and cane rope. Jeff got 2 small fish below camp, one biggish one in gorge. Picniced in cave under big rock in gorge, and then came back with escort of locals. Fine moon, sat outside basha and sang and got decidedly wonky on moonlight and Jeff's cocktails, ate large curry dinner, and so to bed.
text: Jeff lost spoon in gorge and failed to have revenge on huge mahseer he lost 2 years back.
text: H of P more public and less privy than anything yet encountered. It stands neatly on the main path, opposite the cookhouse. Prefer jungle.