The Nagas

Hill Peoples of Northeast India

Project Introduction The Naga Database

diaries kept by Ursula Graham Bower on visits to Manipur and North Cachar between 1937 and 1940

caption: Pherjol to Thalon
medium: diaries
date: 4.12.1938
person: Graham Bower/ Ursula
person: private collection
text: (74) Thalon. Dec. 4th. 11 miles.
text: Locals swarmed round basha rails like crowd round lion's cage and watched us breakfast. Disliked them more than ever. Much giggling, and unpleasant atmosphere after pagan villages. Nasty unco-operative feel about them. Headman not a bad chap. Got off with cameras and tiffin, marched down short cut to road, across valley, and up tremendous hill beyond, zig-zagging on and up for miles, past big landslips and many huge trees swept down. At long, long last reached reception committee of one zu-nosed Kuki with bottle of the usual, and eventually came to graves on hill-crest and hospital and bungalow-basha.
text: Magnificent views all round. "Crater" cliffs now N.E. of us across valley. Decidedly windy place. Cow-bells, christians and views very like the valleys behind Montreux and Clarens. The forested ones, I mean. All very Swiss, even to the houses, like Katcha chalets. Went out and photographed chief's grave.
text: Mail from Imphal. 2 letters from Humps, 1 from A & N Co., 1 from Cooks, 1 from Ross, 1 from Joanne Lindsay-Smith. None from Mummy, or Dunc.
text: Locals, christian, impudent and giggly, but there is large hairy village about somewhere near.
text: Interesting graves with christian inscriptions and highly pagan pillars and skull-posts attached.
text: Peter ate papaia at tiffin.