The Nagas

Hill Peoples of Northeast India

Project Introduction The Naga Database

diaries kept by Ursula Graham Bower on visits to Manipur and North Cachar between 1937 and 1940

caption: Pamyel to Phaiphengmon
medium: diaries
date: 7.12.1938
person: Graham Bower/ Ursula
person: private collection
text: (83) Phaiphengmon. 10.5. Dec. 7th.
text: Woke up early, others also; had tea before it was light and were away by 8. Long, very zig-zag climb, towards crater; lovely moss-grown rocks, magnificent views towards Lushai territory; locals call it Lusei, anyway. (cf. Kapoi and Lusei in Soppitt's book, or whoever else it was, quite correct, more so than Kabui and Lushai, which the locals won't own as pronunciation.) At last reached timber-line and edge of crater. Jeff had the gun and fired two shots, and echoes went rolling away like thunder-clap all round crater. Tremendous gulfs and gullies down below, and trees clinging to face of cheer sandstone cliff. Climbed on, and got into lovely high timber, tall trees 60 feet or more, with no branches for 40 feet of it. Much lovely pink blossom on which small birds were feeding. Saw flight of 20 toucans or more flying about valley and slopes. Hamja tried to get one, but didn't. During a.m. Jeff shot hill-partridge. (84) Beautiful march through this forest, orchids, tree ferns, dwarf bamboo, till woods and secondary jungle began and we reached camp near fields, many jhums back under jungle, and new clearances. Camp better than Pamyel, where both of us collected fleas. Had tiffin in camp, slept in p.m. Mithan turned up while I was bathing, and I turned out in Burberry and Tangkhul cloth to see it. Ridge we crossed over 6000 feet, peak 6600 odd. Overseer's Kuki coolies sat round fire. Tried them with drink and olives. Curry dinner, and a full belly.
text: Full moon, and banana trees all round basha. Big basha with earth floor, embowered in banana, orange and other fruit trees planted by camp chaukidar.