The Nagas

Hill Peoples of Northeast India

Project Introduction The Naga Database

diaries kept by Ursula Graham Bower on visits to Manipur and North Cachar between 1937 and 1940

caption: Lusie to Chingjaroi; treating ailments; a were-tiger
medium: diaries
location: Chingjaroi
date: 17.2.1939
person: Graham Bower/ Ursula
person: private collection
text: (146) Friday, 17th Feb. Chingjaroi. 3-4 m.
text: Had job getting compounder started. Patients came and he didn't, patients went away and he came, and patients had to be sent for. Fine Naga path along flank of Chingjaroi hill, with views into Somra tract. Medicine coolie told us he had heard a tiger round the camp at midnight. He was keeping up well today. Arrived at Chingjaroi about noon, and found it a big place, Khulen and Khunao and Christian village. Also some Kukis in the dispensary crowd. Large body of headmen met me - very decorative indeed. Perao on saddle in cold and windy position reminiscent of Mao. No tattooing on women here, and they speak a dialect with a trilled 'rrr' like Angami. Taking down patients' names was a job. Terrific crowd. I think memsahibs must be scarce here, too. Photos, tripod, knitting and zip fasteners all arroused the usual interest. Typewriter filled the verandah with crowd and nearly gassed me. God knows what I've caught, both germs and lice. Luikai came (147) for more sulphur ointment. Gave him some and a cake of soap. Asked him if he knew about it; grinned, and said he did. Village presented me with a goat. 36 patients, mostly babies, with worms and malaria, and few other diseases. They are grubby as sin, but didn't see any sores or scabies. No doubt more will arrive in time. Masses of small boys swarming round the camp. Very cold, and blew great guns in the night. (Note. Luchai (Lutai) had a well-known were-tiger, who inherited the business from his father.)